SØMNA (Dagsavisen): IN Last week, Dagsavisen wrote that the seat culture is set to be written into UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage as of 4 December this year.
But the seat culture is not alone in – judging by all the sun marks – getting a place on Unesco’s honorable list.
Bunade is also nominated!
– It’s big, says Tone Holte, one of nine active Bunads champions in Norway.
An unreserved apology
Norway’s national dress is nominated with the wording “Farm use in Norway, traditional crafts and social practice”.
– We get this inscription because of our wide and popular use, the craftsmanship behind it and the great variety of bunad traditions across the country. There are over 450 different bunadas in Norway, and in the first week of December they all officially become part of the world’s living cultural heritage, writes Norway’s Husflidslag about the nomination on their website.
The Ministry of Culture submits the application, but it is written by the Institute for Bunad and Folk Costume, Norges Husflidslag, Norges Ungdomslag, Norwegian Folk Costume Forum and the Study Association for Culture and Tradition.
We make a phone call to Rita Sirirud Vatnehol in Norges Ungdomslag, to make up for our lack of mention.
– Sorry! I didn’t know that Bunade is also included in the list?
– It’s going well. We must not have been good enough to sign up! That’s probably why you and the others haven’t caught on to this nomination. We haven’t been clear with information yet, replies Vatnehol apologetically.
– What does it mean to be entered on this list?
– There are two things we nominate. The title is “Bunadbruken in Norway – traditional crafts and social practice”. In that, we include both bun use, what people wear on holidays where appropriate. But there is also the craftsmanship behind it, and the knowledge and techniques. Many are locally rooted, and few can, she says.
She explains that the use of bunad is quite distinctive in Norway.
– All countries have national garments, but they are often used in connection with performances, such as in dance and theatre. But the bunade is for everyman in Norway. Anyone who feels a connection to Norway can wear the bunad on whatever occasion suits them. It is a utility garment. That’s why it stands out from other national costumes, she says.
She believes the nomination is important to highlight the craft tradition, and ensure that the knowledge is not lost.
– The elements that are entered on this list, they must have a desire for protection and continuation. It is not only to end up on a list, but to lay down some premises for the continuation of the knowledge, Vatnehol explains.
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Great importance
One of those who has kept the tradition alive for several decades is Tone Holt. She sewed her first bunad when she was 19, and in 2000 she started a business to sew bunads full-time. She obtained her master’s degree in 2006.
– There must have been around 500 bunads in that time, she says when Dagsavisen pops into her sewing room, in the basement of the residential building in Sømna municipality in Helgeland.
It is not only bunad masters who sew bunads. Others also have the knowledge and abilities, but Holt that she is one of nine in the country who has a master’s degree in the subject and actively practices the profession. She grew up with a mother who was skilled in “all kinds of handicrafts”, including bunads. She herself started her education at Husflidskolen, and worked with various textiles – before finally investing fully in the bunade.
– What is it about bunad that made you dedicate your entire professional life to it?
– It is quality. I like things to be orderly. And bunad stands for quality. You can’t make something that doesn’t last, it should last for several generations, she says, and says that’s what made her fascinated by the Bunad culture.
The last 24 years have gone by quickly, and she says that she has always experienced a steady influx of people who want to have a bunad sewn. She will retire in 2028, but already has a full schedule until then.
– It’s no use relaxing for six months!, she says, and explains that each bunad is created after a long process.
– What do you think about the fact that bunade is now on the UNESCO cultural heritage list?
– Fantastic! Then we can get a little more light on the importance of this proper garment, and its use.
– What significance do you think bunade has?
– It is of great importance to the vast majority of people. That is the reason why they come to me with confirmation candidates, and get their first bunad. Then they will have the milestone of confirmation, and then they will get the garment that is made nicely for them, she says.
– How will you celebrate if you get a place on the list?
– I guess I’ll have to wear a bunad, then!
A lot of work
Vatnehol says that bunade is popular and increasing in use, but that it is not a given that it will be like this forever.
– And in any case, it is not a given that the knowledge of the craft techniques will be passed on. By getting this on the cultural heritage list, we hope the state helps to create good framework conditions for bunad manufacturers, and helps to increase interest in the profession so that we can recruit more people, she says.
She there is a lot of work behind the application.
– We have been working on the project since 2017, and we have used a lot of resources in collecting information, disseminating knowledge, traveling around and surveying what we are going to nominate. It has required a lot of resources from us. The whole Unesco system is quite complicated, so there are many requirements that must be met, she says, and points out that the nomination is a recommendation, and that the formal registration will most likely take place in December.
– So we are so relieved and happy, but that doesn’t mean the job is done! We will continue to work with the Bunade, she says.
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