There are branches of HomeState in Hollywood, Highland Park, Playa Vista, Sherman Oaks, Oceanside, Atwater Village, Culver City and right here on Pasadena’s north side.
Most of the HomeStates sit out in plain view, right on the street, where you can gaze in wonder at the line in front — which like our many artisan coffee and bagel joints, seems to be permanent, stretching from breakfast taco time to anytime tacos time.
But, in the case of the Pasadena HomeState, that line, just like the shop itself, is a tad hidden from the street. It sits in a parking lot on Lincoln Avenue, far from Old Pasadena, in a culinary enclave that includes the wonderful Ferrazzani’s Pasta & Market, and a branch of Stumptown Coffee. But it’s HomeState that draws the crowd. And, for good reason: HomeState is a taste of home, no matter where your home might be. It has the affable sense of a friendly neighborhood destination for any and all neighborhoods.
Honestly, I’m more of a “hometown” kind of guy — and even “home neighborhood.” When you come from the Bronx, you don’t think in terms of the city, and certainly not of the state. My neighborhood was Highbridge just a few blocks from Yankee Stadium. It defined me in many ways. But those ways did not include tacos — an unknown in my old ’hood. By contrast, no matter what city in Texas folks come from, they tell you they’re from Texas. It’s their touchstone. And tacos are their defining home state food.
HomeState loves to remind you of its roots. The subtitle of the restaurant is “A Texas kitchen.” The menu informs that the restaurant was “Est. 2013 by Texas native Briana Valdez.” One of the beers is Shiner Bock, an iconic Texas brew. (The exceptional brisket is slow-cooked in Shiner as well!) The eggs come from Vital Farms in Austin. The Loaded Queso is described as “The national party dip of Texas.” One of the tequila drinks is called “Ranchwater.” One of the snacks is “Frito Pie in a Bag.” Pure Texas!
But still, this is a restaurant in Southern California. And so, the chicken is “organic certified, free-range and raised with a vegetarian diet, free of GMOs and antibiotics on farms in Sonoma County.” The coffee beans, from Nicaragua, are roasted here in LA. The corn tortillas are from Kernel of Truth Organics in Boyle Heights. The iced tea is made from organic peach green tea, mixed with mint lemonade. Which does not seem like something you’d drink wearing a pair of hand-tooled Tony Lamas.
The Pasadena branch has the look of a sun-bleached structure in a Texas plains town. A sign on the wall reads: “Welcome home.” And, indeed, making you feel right at home is one of the hallmarks of HomeState.
The people behind the counter taking orders are friendly as labradoodle puppies. The folks who deliver the food, made with impressive speed, wish you a good meal, and ask if there’s anything else you need. They bring you squeeze bottles with a pair of sauces, one reddish brown, the other green. There’s a self-service counter with more sauces — Cholula, Tapatio and … Heinz tomato ketchup. Heinz is Heinz. Ya gotta have it.
The largest section on the menu belongs to the breakfast tacos, which are served all day long. I guess they’re breakfast since six of the nine are made using scrambled eggs. That they’re served all day goes back to my contention that there’s really no need to eat breakfast in the morning. Eggs are good, morning, noon and night.
And they’re really good at HomeState, which must go through a Walmart-sized hen house every day.
You begin with a choice of tortillas — either the corn model from East LA, or the flour tortilla, made by the truckload in front of you while you wait to place your order. Talk about freshly made! The scrambled egg tacos come with bacon and cheddar, chorizo and cheddar, refried beans and cheddar, black beans and jack — and in an egg white alternative from Chino Valley Farms, with shiitake mushrooms and jack. If you don’t want cheese, there are eggs and brisket.
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But for me, the dish that really dazzles are the migas — the Mexican version of matzoh brie, crispy corn strips with onions and cheese scrambled with eggs. It’s the sort of dish that’s fun to eat here — and to make at home. It comes mixed with cheddar, with chorizo and jack, with brisket and cheddar. It’s as good a breakfast dish as I can imagine. I really can eat this one from dawn to dusk and beyond.
Beyond that, there are four Anytime Tacos, and four Band Tacos — originally created as a charitable fundraiser by local bands. The vegan Chicano Batman (a local band playing “Psychedelic Soul”) is made with crispy potato, guacamole, salsa verde and … soydillo — which seems to be some sort of soy cheese, unique to HomeState.
By contrast, if you want real cheese, and lots of it, get the Loaded Queso Chips — made with brisket chili, guac, pico de gallo, sour cream and heaps of gooey melted cheese.
For dessert, get the salted chocolate chip cookies. In for a peso, etc.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email [email protected].
HomeState
- Rating: 2.5 stars
- Address: 1992 Lincoln Ave., Pasadena
- Information: 323-982-8600, www.myhomestate.com
- Cuisine: Tex-Mex
- When: Breakfast, lunch and dinner, every day
- Details: Tequila and beer; no reservations
- Atmosphere: Easy going taco chain, with a wide selection, fast service, great tortillas, and a large outdoor patio. Margaritas, too!
- Prices: About $15 per person
- On the menu: 9 Breakfast Tacos ($3.50-$5.50), 3 Migas ($8.50-$12), 4 Anytime Tacos ($5-$6), 4 “Band” Tacos ($4-$6), 5 Sides ($1-$9), 4 “Queso Chips Dips” ($5-$10), 4 “Eats” ($4-$14), 1 “Sweet Tooth” ($4)
- Credit cards: MC, V
- What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)